Computer upgrading concerns

[Compatriot Block]

So doing my first computer upgrade, since my friend built my PC for me as a favor. I've had a new CPU for a while (an Intel i5 3570k 3.4Ghz) along with a new motherboard and sticks of RAM. I'm incredibly nervous to actually take my computer apart and install them all because if I screw up and kill any parts I don't have the money to just replace them.

My first question is about the PSU. Right now my computer is running crossfired HD 6770s with a 550W PSU, and I haven't had any problems so far. I don't plan on replacing these yet. I have gotten differing answers from different people I have asked, and I am unsure whether or not I need to upgrade that to be safe.

This is the new PSU I was looking at just in case:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139051

Is that overkill?

Second, is the actual process of installing the parts really complicated? Is there anything I need to do before I start taking parts out, software-wise I guess?

 

[Eclectic Dreck]

Is that overkill?

It's hard to say but I'd be willing to bet the new MB/Memory/CPU combo will still be served by your current power supply. If you have any doubts, you can use a tool to take some of the guesswork out of the equation.

Second, is the actual process of installing the parts really complicated? Is there anything I need to do before I start taking parts out, software-wise I guess?

It isn't all that complicated. Beyond disconnecting everything from the board, removing power and making sure you've got some plan to manage static on your person, everything is just a matter of attention to detail. The hardest part, in my experience, is figuring out where all the wires to various inputs on the front of the case go and that's just a function of bad lighting in my home.

As far as the follow on concerns of making the system boot again, that may require some changes in your BIOS and, if you have a higher end motherboard or have an Array, may require fiddling around with the controller and/or reinstalling the OS. In general though chances are good after the hardware is installed, you would be able to boot into you OS and simply remove old drivers and install new ones without much trouble. All told, just read the manual, take your time, and if ever you aren't sure about a step check the internet. Someone will have the answer for you a short Googling away.

 

[Compatriot Block]

Is that overkill?

It's hard to say but I'd be willing to bet the new MB/Memory/CPU combo will still be served by your current power supply. If you have any doubts, you can use a tool to take some of the guesswork out of the equation.

Second, is the actual process of installing the parts really complicated? Is there anything I need to do before I start taking parts out, software-wise I guess?

It isn't all that complicated. Beyond disconnecting everything from the board, removing power and making sure you've got some plan to manage static on your person, everything is just a matter of attention to detail. The hardest part, in my experience, is figuring out where all the wires to various inputs on the front of the case go and that's just a function of bad lighting in my home.

As far as the follow on concerns of making the system boot again, that may require some changes in your BIOS and, if you have a higher end motherboard or have an Array, may require fiddling around with the controller and/or reinstalling the OS. In general though chances are good after the hardware is installed, you would be able to boot into you OS and simply remove old drivers and install new ones without much trouble. All told, just read the manual, take your time, and if ever you aren't sure about a step check the internet. Someone will have the answer for you a short Googling away.

I appreciate the quick answer.

I went ahead and used the calculator you linked. Whenever I wasn't exactly sure (for example, in the capacitor aging section I put 30%) I tried to estimate slightly above what I think is most accurate, to be safe. I'm not exactly sure how to check if I have PCI cards, so I left that blank. For the fan section, since I am currently away from home and on a laptop, I just put in 3 regular 120mm fans since I'm pretty sure my fans are smaller. I also chose "High End Desktop" for my new motherboard, since I'm not sure what category a "MB Asrock Z77 Extreme4" is.

At 90% system load it came out to about 439W depending on if I mess with some settings. Is that something a 550W can safely handle?

I appreciate any help I can get.

 

[Bellvedere]

If you follow the instructions that come with the mobo it's fairly easy to install the actual parts. Depending on what you're upgrading from it may require more fiddling or less fiddling around, but as Eclectic Dreck says, there will be a solution somewhere on the internet.

You should definitely back up any important data before you start incase you do need to do a clean install.
If you have any software that is limited to a particular number installs (such as MS Office) then deactivate it and record the CD key before you upgrade (as when you change the MOBO it will recognise it as a new computer).
The only other potential issue software wise would be if you have an OEM version of windows because those versions are linked to the motherboard and won't work when you get a new one. I've heard that occasionally MS will reactivate an OEM version, definitely worth a shot but I would be very prepared for the possibility of buying a new copy.

 

[Compatriot Block]

If you follow the instructions that come with the mobo it's fairly easy to install the actual parts. Depending on what you're upgrading from it may require more fiddling or less fiddling around, but as Eclectic Dreck says, there will be a solution somewhere on the internet.

You should definitely back up any important data before you start incase you do need to do a clean install.
If you have any software that is limited to a particular number installs (such as MS Office) then deactivate it and record the CD key before you upgrade (as when you change the MOBO it will recognise it as a new computer).
The only other potential issue software wise would be if you have an OEM version of windows because those versions are linked to the motherboard and won't work when you get a new one. I've heard that occasionally MS will reactivate an OEM version, definitely worth a shot but I would be very prepared for the possibility of buying a new copy.

Yeah, I may end up having to do that. The friend who built it for me doesn't live in-state, so when he shipped it to me all I got was the box with the tower inside it. I never even considered what I would do if I had to replace any parts, because at the time I had virtually no idea how building a PC works.

 

[Eclectic Dreck]

At 90% system load it came out to about 439W depending on if I mess with some settings. Is that something a 550W can safely handle?

I appreciate any help I can get.

It can probably handle the load. The reason I say probably is because you cannot count on a power supply to actually deliver that rated power; often that value was achieved (if at all) under conditions you simply won't be able to replicate using extreme refrigeration for example.

What it comes down to is that your peak draw is close enough to the highest probable power output of your power supply that it might be worth upgrading to a 750w.

 

[Compatriot Block]

At 90% system load it came out to about 439W depending on if I mess with some settings. Is that something a 550W can safely handle?

I appreciate any help I can get.

It can probably handle the load. The reason I say probably is because you cannot count on a power supply to actually deliver that rated power; often that value was achieved (if at all) under conditions you simply won't be able to replicate using extreme refrigeration for example.

What it comes down to is that your peak draw is close enough to the highest probable power output of your power supply that it might be worth upgrading to a 750w.

If it helps, I'm using an Antec BP550 Plus 550W PSU. I think I read that they have a good reputation.

Pretty sure this is it:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016&Tpk=antec%20bp550%20plus

Sorry if I sound desperate, but it's looking more and more likely that I'm going to have to re-buy Windows, which is already about 100$.

Keep in mind that if I bumped the capacitor aging from 30% to 25%, it goes down to 417W on the calculator, and I don't really know how aging works. I have owned it for almost 2 years, but I always shut it down during the night. I don't know if any of that is significant or not.

Also, what is the difference between a high-end and regular motherboard? If I set the calculator to regular, I'm all the way down to 395W.

Thanks again.

 

[gunny1993]

Doing anything to that to a pc is easy as pie, just make sure you unplug the pc and discharge any static before touching sensitive parts (anything with open circuity really), to do that just touch anything metal that is grounded.

That's a fine mobo for what you've got, tbh i'm surprised you can run 2 cards on 550W, it's possible you're loosing power on one of them, although PSUs aren't my area.

Edit: I do know that that PSU is modular which makes installing even easier and much tidier.

 

[Ravesy]

I'd probably get the 750 Watt PSU just to be sure and it gives a little more breathing room. Its worth noting that power wise it only uses whats needed (if thats a concern) so even if you have a 750 Watt PSU, and the computer only needs say 500 Watts, thats whats used, not the 750.

As others have said, making/upgrading a computer is really easy with all the guides out there, so you dont have much to worry about. Just dont go plugging things in when its on....

Why are you looking at buying windows again? (unless ive missed something, im still half asleep) You should be able to use some software to get your current windows Key if you haven't got the sticker for it, and just use it again when you reinstall.

 

[Compatriot Block]

I'd probably get the 750 Watt PSU just to be sure and it gives a little more breathing room. Its worth noting that power wise it only uses whats needed (if thats a concern) so even if you have a 750 Watt PSU, and the computer only needs say 500 Watts, thats whats used, not the 750.

As others have said, making/upgrading a computer is really easy with all the guides out there, so you dont have much to worry about. Just dont go plugging things in when its on....

Why are you looking at buying windows again? (unless ive missed something, im still half asleep) You should be able to use some software to get your current windows Key if you haven't got the sticker for it, and just use it again when you reinstall.

I'm not sure exactly how it works, but if my copy of Windows is OEM, doesn't that mean it's only usable once? I'm not sure it is, but I have a sinking feeling.

If I can avoid buying Windows, then the new PSU isn't a problem. I just would rather not have to buy both.

 

[Ravesy]

I'm not sure exactly how it works, but if my copy of Windows is OEM, doesn't that mean it's only usable once? I'm not sure it is, but I have a sinking feeling.

If I can avoid buying Windows, then the new PSU isn't a problem. I just would rather not have to buy both.

You can reuse the OEM key again (I have done hundreds of times) It just means it needs to be sold with a hardware purchase.

You can get your key by using the "Magical Jelly Bean" key finder (at least thats what ive used). When you go to activate again you may go straight through, or you may have to phone up the automated Microsoft number, which will take 5 minutes of pressing numbers on your phone/computer, it asks how many computers you have windows installed on, which in your case will be one, and it will go through.

No need to buy windows for a second time .

 

[Compatriot Block]

You can reuse the OEM key again (I have done hundreds of times) It just means it needs to be sold with a hardware purchase.

You can get your key by using the "Magical Jelly Bean" key finder (at least thats what ive used). When you go to activate again you may go straight through, or you may have to phone up the automated Microsoft number, which will take 5 minutes of pressing numbers on your phone/computer, it asks how many computers you have windows installed on, which in your case will be one, and it will go through.

No need to buy windows for a second time .

Really? That's great news, saves me lots of worry. Many thanks.

Where can I find that number? I'd google it, but I'm not sure exactly what to search for. Or does it just give me the number when I boot the computer?

 

[Ravesy]

Really? That's great news, saves me lots of worry. Many thanks.

Where can I find that number? I'd google it, but I'm not sure exactly what to search for. Or does it just give me the number when I boot the computer?

No worries, glad to help .

It gives you the number when you go to activate. You have options to activate online, or by telephone. You may be able to activate online fine in which case there's no need to phone at all, it depends on how many times its been activated online before.

 

[Ravesy]

Also as others have said, make sure you have backed up any data off the drive as chances are you will need to do a clean install of windows with the now parts. You CAN get around that by installing the motherboard drivers through recovery console (I have done a couple of times) but generally its easier just to wipe it and start over.

 

[Compatriot Block]

Also as others have said, make sure you have backed up any data off the drive as chances are you will need to do a clean install of windows with the now parts. You CAN get around that by installing the motherboard drivers through recovery console (I have done a couple of times) but generally its easier just to wipe it and start over.

Will do. Honestly the biggest relief is that the parts aren't actually hard to install. I've been worried about accidentally frying my machine for a while.

Thanks everyone.

 

[romxxii]

Are you planning on installing a bajillion exhaust fans and/or liquid cooling? Do you expect to hook up a lot of drives/peripherals to your computer? If your answer to these two questions is "Yes", then the 750W is a wise investment. Otherwise, you don't really need it, especially if you're going to run off the low TDP Intel CPUs.

 

[Griffolion]

-snip-

No, that's not overkill. In fact, that's what you needed in the first place.

Installing parts isn't difficult. They are all standardised now, and made in such a way that you can only plug things in one way around. Just make sure you de-static yourself on a grounded object before you work and don't force anything.

Back up what's important to you. If your upgrade includes a new motherboard, you will need to wipe your HDD's and install windows fresh. It's the best way.

High end motherboards will have more integrated circuitry in them, requiring more power. They often have more I/O than a mid range unit, too, meaning you can connect more things to it. That's why it factors into power requirements the way it does.

[a href="http://www.destructoid.com/blogs/Andy+Hall/pc-building-the-beginners-guide-209622.phtml"]Here is my guide on PC building. Hopefully you find it helpful.[/a]

 

[Ravesy]

Are you planning on installing a bajillion exhaust fans and/or liquid cooling? Do you expect to hook up a lot of drives/peripherals to your computer? If your answer to these two questions is "Yes", then the 750W is a wise investment. Otherwise, you don't really need it, especially if you're going to run off the low TDP Intel CPUs.

Hes said hes running crossfired 6770's, which i think would probably be reason enough to upgrade from a 2 year old 550 Watt psu (even more so if its a lesser quality brand). That said you can always stick with it and see how it goes, and if you run into issues get the higher wattage PSU, but might be better in the long run to have that space now rather than a little way down the line .

Its also worth noting that if he chose to replace those 2 6770s with the latest generation, say a single 7970, then the recommended PSU value is at least 536 watts, which leaves very little breathing room in his current setup. (I used 2 hard drives, 3 fans not knowing your full setup, but you get the idea)

 

[romxxii]

Are you planning on installing a bajillion exhaust fans and/or liquid cooling? Do you expect to hook up a lot of drives/peripherals to your computer? If your answer to these two questions is "Yes", then the 750W is a wise investment. Otherwise, you don't really need it, especially if you're going to run off the low TDP Intel CPUs.

Hes said hes running crossfired 6770's, which i think would probably be reason enough to upgrade from a 2 year old 550 Watt psu (even more so if its a lesser quality brand). That said you can always stick with it and see how it goes, and if you run into issues get the higher wattage PSU, but might be better in the long run to have that space now rather than a little way down the line .

Its also worth noting that if he chose to replace those 2 6770s with the latest generation, say a single 7970, then the recommended PSU value is at least 536 watts, which leaves very little breathing room in his current setup. (I used 2 hard drives, 3 fans not knowing your full setup, but you get the idea)

But he already stated that using the power supply calculator linked above, his recommended PSU wattage was at 490W. If that's the case, and he's not expecting to add any other peripherals, fans, aftermarket cooling options, or switch to a current-gen GPU in the very near future, then that 750W PSU is a bit of a waste.

 

[KOMega]

I know I overkilled mine and got a friggin 1000W.

I feel quite guilty about it already, but whats done is done.
That being said, nothing is wrong about getting a higher power supply outside of the initial cost I think.