Picking new PC components.

[Dectomax]

I've recommended something similar to a friend recently who was upgrading - Pick up a GTX760, which is a more than powerful enough card for anything released now or for a while and a decent 600/650wt PSU - CERTIFIED 80 PLUS BRONZE.

That is a more than powerful enough PC for anything you'd want to throw at it, aslong as your RAM and CPU are powerful enough to not bottleneck it. ( Which, aslong as they're not two years or more older, they shouldn't do ).

That's just my opinion. £330 isn't a lot, but you might get a decent deal if you look about enough. ( I picked up a 7870 for £130, brand new, on a quick deal from Ebay. )

The best advice you'll be given is to look around before committing to a purchase, because as soon as you've clicked buy I can assure you that you'll find a cheaper version somewhere - that's how Murphy's Law works.

 

[Sigmund Av Volsung]

I've recommended something similar to a friend recently who was upgrading - Pick up a GTX760, which is a more than powerful enough card for anything released now or for a while and a decent 600/650wt PSU - CERTIFIED 80 PLUS BRONZE.

That is a more than powerful enough PC for anything you'd want to throw at it, aslong as your RAM and CPU are powerful enough to not bottleneck it. ( Which, aslong as they're not two years or more older, they shouldn't do ).

That's just my opinion. £330 isn't a lot, but you might get a decent deal if you look about enough. ( I picked up a 7870 for £130, brand new, on a quick deal from Ebay. )

The best advice you'll be given is to look around before committing to a purchase, because as soon as you've clicked buy I can assure you that you'll find a cheaper version somewhere - that's how Murphy's Law works.

Yeah, sorry, forgot to post those details

-CPU: Intel i5 3470(because I don't know how to OC) @ 3.2Ghz
-RAM: Kingston HyperX Genesis Grey 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C9 1600MHz
-Motherboard: MSI Z77MA-G45
-Case: Cooler Master Elite 430

 

[Dectomax]

I've recommended something similar to a friend recently who was upgrading - Pick up a GTX760, which is a more than powerful enough card for anything released now or for a while and a decent 600/650wt PSU - CERTIFIED 80 PLUS BRONZE.

That is a more than powerful enough PC for anything you'd want to throw at it, aslong as your RAM and CPU are powerful enough to not bottleneck it. ( Which, aslong as they're not two years or more older, they shouldn't do ).

That's just my opinion. £330 isn't a lot, but you might get a decent deal if you look about enough. ( I picked up a 7870 for £130, brand new, on a quick deal from Ebay. )

The best advice you'll be given is to look around before committing to a purchase, because as soon as you've clicked buy I can assure you that you'll find a cheaper version somewhere - that's how Murphy's Law works.

Yeah, sorry, forgot to post those details

-CPU: Intel i5 3470(because I don't know how to OC) @ 3.2Ghz
-RAM: Kingston HyperX Genesis Grey 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C9 1600MHz
-Motherboard: MSI Z77MA-G45
-Case: Cooler Master Elite 430

Then I repeat my advice - GTX760 and a 650WT PSU. You'll be sorted for atleast a year or two - if not more, depending on your ability to not care for visuals.

 

[Ravesy]

I know, I have been bit in the ass once before by skimping on a PSU, I just dont want to spend more than £40 on one, as my budget is tight.

If you know better 500w psus for the same price, that would be great, otherwise, it will be a massive stretch, and I would have to buy a worse component(like a GPU) to compensate.

Power supply looks fine to me, Coolermaster are a decent brand and the supply is 85% efficiency. Sure spend more money on one if you want, but you really aren't going to have any issues with your original choice in my opinion. (i must have made 50 computers for myself, work and friends using various versions of that power supply, and have yet to have one fail on me)

I personally use ebuyer for all of my IT stuff, but have used Scan in the past so its probably between those two for personal preference, although it might be worth checking out ebuyer to see if it is cheaper with them.

You might want to spend a little bit more on the keyboard and mouse, as i know they would probably bug me, but again i guess its down to what your used to, if your happy with those then go ahead .

I actually checked out ebuyer, and it's actually quite a good site (the parts I want fit nicely into my budget, but not the 670, nevertheless, a 760 is good).

I would like to know how much delivery would cost, as I do not want to end up paying an extra £50 for it(also, how long it would take to get them to my address(as in, do they use couriers, or is it royal mail? Also if a part has "free delivery" can it apply to the entire order?))

You have different options at checkout with the shipping. You can select free delivery which is for the whole order, and means it will all arrive within 5 working days. Some times it can be delivered the next day if you're lucky, otherwise you may be waiting for the full 5 days. Next day delivery is around £10 I think. Hope that helps .

 

[Sigmund Av Volsung]

I know, I have been bit in the ass once before by skimping on a PSU, I just dont want to spend more than £40 on one, as my budget is tight.

If you know better 500w psus for the same price, that would be great, otherwise, it will be a massive stretch, and I would have to buy a worse component(like a GPU) to compensate.

Power supply looks fine to me, Coolermaster are a decent brand and the supply is 85% efficiency. Sure spend more money on one if you want, but you really aren't going to have any issues with your original choice in my opinion. (i must have made 50 computers for myself, work and friends using various versions of that power supply, and have yet to have one fail on me)

I personally use ebuyer for all of my IT stuff, but have used Scan in the past so its probably between those two for personal preference, although it might be worth checking out ebuyer to see if it is cheaper with them.

You might want to spend a little bit more on the keyboard and mouse, as i know they would probably bug me, but again i guess its down to what your used to, if your happy with those then go ahead .

I actually checked out ebuyer, and it's actually quite a good site (the parts I want fit nicely into my budget, but not the 670, nevertheless, a 760 is good).

I would like to know how much delivery would cost, as I do not want to end up paying an extra £50 for it(also, how long it would take to get them to my address(as in, do they use couriers, or is it royal mail? Also if a part has "free delivery" can it apply to the entire order?))

You have different options at checkout with the shipping. You can select free delivery which is for the whole order, and means it will all arrive within 5 working days. Some times it can be delivered the next day if you're lucky, otherwise you may be waiting for the full 5 days. Next day delivery is around £10 I think. Hope that helps .

That's good to know: when I used SCAN in the past, they forced me to use a courier option.

The package did arrive exactly on time, and was very well packaged, but they made me pay, like an extra £30 for the entire order.

 

[The Lugz]

Ugh, can you give me a quick summary to your point? I can't understand a word he's saying.

sure, basically the microscopic sensors in mice simply don't have the enormous claimed dpi because to do so would require a sensor and or optical system the size of a flat-bed scanner, and when you consider the dpi levels involved the comparison makes sense

what mouse manufacturers are doing is dub dividing pixels, using software basically detecting average light levels between the sensors ( they're not just on/off ) which allows you to paint an image in software that you can then cut up as you see fit, the problem being the more you try and subdivide the image the more you're relying on math and the less you're relying on the original data, which makes the mouse precise, but less accurate

so, wait isn't that the same thing? well no. precision is always getting the same answer, repeatably. accuracy is getting the closest to the truth, like hitting a bullseye.

in the context of a mouse, that means you're introducing jitter and speed variations at the very high levels of software interpretation which is why i stick to a sub-4000 dpi setting mouse that uses two sensors

 

[Signa]

Ugh, can you give me a quick summary to your point? I can't understand a word he's saying.

sure, basically the microscopic sensors in mice simply don't have the enormous claimed dpi because to do so would require a sensor and or optical system the size of a flat-bed scanner, and when you consider the dpi levels involved the comparison makes sense

what mouse manufacturers are doing is dub dividing pixels, using software basically detecting average light levels between the sensors ( they're not just on/off ) which allows you to paint an image in software that you can then cut up as you see fit, the problem being the more you try and subdivide the image the more you're relying on math and the less you're relying on the original data, which makes the mouse precise, but less accurate

so, wait isn't that the same thing? well no. precision is always getting the same answer, repeatably. accuracy is getting the closest to the truth, like hitting a bullseye.

in the context of a mouse, that means you're introducing jitter and speed variations at the very high levels of software interpretation which is why i stick to a sub-4000 dpi setting mouse that uses two sensors

Ok, that's fair enough. Thanks for that.

I was more under the impression (mostly because of the practical translation of those technical numbers) that the DPI was the rate at which the mouse detected an inch of movement. The higher DPI meant faster movement of the cursor with a smaller movement of the mouse itself. The 400DPI mouse I had meant I had to move about 5 inches just to get across the 1920 pixel screen. I know there's other things at work like software enhancements, which could have dropped those 5 inches to maybe 2, but then the low DPI would also mean a drop in precision while moving those 2 inches. I also expected that while I now have a 3200DPI mouse, the software I have says I set it to 400-800 DPI, and while that also translated to movement speed, it seemed to move with far more precision than the real 400DPI mouse I had, implying it was still reading at around 3200DPI for tracking, but only using part of the tracking info for movement.

Apparently, I know nothing of all of this because what you posted flies in the face of what I thought I was experiencing. I'll take that guy's word (and yours) over mine because I'm sure there's a lot more at play here than what I was feeling. My original post in the thread was based off of what I've experienced above, and not some higher-number jerk-off techno porn.

MMmmmmm 4800DPI... SOOOoooo GOoooOOOod!