Yeah, I am a freshman in college, so I think I still have some of that.LarenzoAOG said:snip
and nice camera, I'm not a photo man myself but I have worked with photo's quite a bit
I'm proud to see escapists showing their work
Yeah, I am a freshman in college, so I think I still have some of that.LarenzoAOG said:snip
Go ahead my good man, whats the worst that could happen?FallenTraveler said:Yeah, I am a freshman in college, so I think I still have some of that.LarenzoAOG said:snip
and nice camera, I'm not a photo man myself but I have worked with photo's quite a bit
I'm proud to see escapists showing their workalmost makes me want to display my own!
you ever try to google google? hahaLarenzoAOG said:Go ahead my good man, whats the worst that could happen?FallenTraveler said:Yeah, I am a freshman in college, so I think I still have some of that.LarenzoAOG said:snip
and nice camera, I'm not a photo man myself but I have worked with photo's quite a bit
I'm proud to see escapists showing their workalmost makes me want to display my own!
Yeah I kind of felt bad since I just said it was unimpressive with out leavening constructive criticism. For example when your doing reflections in the water try getting equal amounts of original and reflection, it gives it duality. Also if you want some technical practice, set it to manual at different times of the day, it takes experimentation and the camera needs to be steady, but it will give you more control once you figure it out. Also take multiple shots of the same subject, you'll have more chances of getting a good one.LarenzoAOG said:I'm glad you can out-photograph the high school senior who just a few days ago started photography! If you couldn't you probably wouldn't be a very successful photgrapherdrisky said:Meh, i've done photography my self and your mostly just doing macro focus of plant life, in my last semester i can match most of those photos and have quite a few better ones. So really nothing to get exited about for me.![]()
Thanks for the tips my good man.drisky said:Yeah I kind of felt bad since I just said it was unimpressive with out leavening constructive criticism. For example when your doing reflections in the water try getting equal amounts of original and reflection, it gives it duality. Also if you want some technical practice, set it to manual at different times of the day, it takes experimentation and the camera needs to be steady, but it will give you more control once you figure it out. Also take multiple shots of the same subject, you'll have more chances of getting a good one.LarenzoAOG said:I'm glad you can out-photograph the high school senior who just a few days ago started photography! If you couldn't you probably wouldn't be a very successful photgrapherdrisky said:Meh, i've done photography my self and your mostly just doing macro focus of plant life, in my last semester i can match most of those photos and have quite a few better ones. So really nothing to get exited about for me.![]()
Flowers are a good way to start though, its where i started and you get pleasing images without much know how, and even cheap cameras pull it off well.
WELL, if you could get me a job at NatGeo I would be much obliged.Blemontea said:WEll if your looking for a job in national geographic or any other photographic work position then i say you would do pretty well at it, these pictures are very good and the focus is very well placed on your objects.
NYEEeeeh, sorry but i dont know anyone that works there....LarenzoAOG said:WELL, if you could get me a job at NatGeo I would be much obliged.Blemontea said:WEll if your looking for a job in national geographic or any other photographic work position then i say you would do pretty well at it, these pictures are very good and the focus is very well placed on your objects.
Harsh maninnocentEX said:nothing special, better luck next time? amiright?
Sorry, I was typing pretty quickly earlier. The F-Stop controls the aperture of the shutter when you take a photo. The way this works is the smaller your F-Stop the deeper your depth of field, but the more light that you'll need to make the exposure. Conversely if you open the F-Stop all the way up you'll end up with a paper thin depth of field with everything else out of focus. You can actually use this (with a little practice, and a co-conspirator) to get a shot of a single person in a crowd, where everyone behind them, and in front is out of focus.LarenzoAOG said:Wow, that is a lot of information, thank you. I will imediatley look up fstop, because I don't yet know the meaning of that, thank you though.
WOW! Thank you very, very much, I just had to write a seven page report on photography, and it didn't have nearly as much useful information as this, again, thank you very much.Starke said:Sorry, I was typing pretty quickly earlier. The F-Stop controls the aperture of the shutter when you take a photo. The way this works is the smaller your F-Stop the deeper your depth of field, but the more light that you'll need to make the exposure. Conversely if you open the F-Stop all the way up you'll end up with a paper thin depth of field with everything else out of focus. You can actually use this (with a little practice, and a co-conspirator) to get a shot of a single person in a crowd, where everyone behind them, and in front is out of focus.LarenzoAOG said:Wow, that is a lot of information, thank you. I will imediatley look up fstop, because I don't yet know the meaning of that, thank you though.
Another thing about speed, if you're closing down your F-Stop, especially at night, you're going to need a tripod and either a camera with a fuse (most cheap cameras have these, but as I recall a lot of older SLRs lack them) or a hand bulb. I've done cityscape at night where I had to draw the exposure time out to over a second (meaning I had to override the speed and time the shot manually). You cannot do this and touch the camera at the same time, it will jostle the camera ruining the exposure.
You can offset the speed issue by using a finer grain film. The finer the grain the more light sensitive the film will be, the shorter your exposure length needs to be. Now, unless something has seriously changed in the last few years, the finer the grain the more expensive the film.
In a complete non-sequitor, related to Drisky's comments: early morning light shifts yellow, midday light (which daylight film is calibrated for) shifts blue, evening light shifts orange to red. With this in mind pick a time of day to shoot your subject to complement it's colors. For instance, (depending on latitude and time of year) I'd shoot 1 and 5+6 at around 5pm in the afternoon. (Basically looking for the sun to be at around 30 to 45 degrees off the horizon.) On 1 it would give the shot some nice shadow textures, which it's missing, and on 5+6 it would bring out the color more. 1 could probably be done at 6 or 7am, but I dislike morning shoots, so I tend to avoid them if I can.
Finally, if you need to mess with the world, don't be afraid of using specialized film incorrectly, but remember, unless you have the equipment to, you can't swap out rolls mid roll.
The most common film types are:
Daylight: this is calibrated for a bright blue light. Indoors under tungsten lights it will skew red/orange.
Florescent: this is calibrated for blue green. If you use it with tungsten lights you'll get a yellowish discoloration (IIRC). (Honestly I've never actually used florescent film, and never had a reason to.)
Tungsten: it's calibrated for an orange light. If you use it outside in daylight you'll end up with a serious blue-green shift.
Note you can get most film in negative or slide format. Slide film produces, well, projection slides. If you do a lot of photography, especially as a job, slide film can be very handy for three major reasons, first you can buy three ring plastic binder pages that will fit slides, and second because should you start selling your work, all you need to do is hand over the slide, you don't need to worry about cutting apart your negatives. Third, it's actually cheaper to develop, unless you intend to get prints made off of most of a roll. You're only paying to develop the negatives.
Also note, that most digital cameras are programed to emulate these different film types, and can usually be set to do so automatically. If you have a choice, override this at your first opportunity and manually switch between modes, to retain control over the color.
Actually a fourth thing about slide film (provided you can shell out for the specialized scanner (They start around $70, a high grade professional one will run about $250) that it requires) slide film is incredibly easy to digitally scan in comparison to normal prints.
Finally some weirder film types do exist that are worth playing with:
Infrared film is kinda unusual these days, but it does still exist.
Krilian (I'm almost certain I'm misspelling this) photography will show energy fields around living organisms and electrically conductive materials, though the rest of the exposure is black. That said, this isn't actually strictly speaking a film type, it's a kind of exposure using film plates. Really neat looking stuff, but it does require specialized hardware.
I'll probably say something more incoherent later, until then, take care.
Damn! Well it was worth a shot.Blemontea said:NYEEeeeh, sorry but i dont know anyone that works there....LarenzoAOG said:WELL, if you could get me a job at NatGeo I would be much obliged.Blemontea said:WEll if your looking for a job in national geographic or any other photographic work position then i say you would do pretty well at it, these pictures are very good and the focus is very well placed on your objects.
The pictures are quite good...but kind of "expected".LarenzoAOG said:I've been taking pictures for a school project, and I'd like to know what people other than my friends and family think of them, I took these pics myself, I didn't steal them, and I didn't Google search nature, no flaming, lemme know if you like em.
The pics are pretty big and there are a few of them so it might not show up right away, don't be a shitbird, if you're gonna steal my pics at least namedrop me, other than that, enjoy!
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I just began photography for this project, I've got a really good teacher (my dad), but he used to be a Combat Photographer, so he's not the leading authority for snapping flowers and such, if you have any beginners tips it would be greatly appreciated.
I'm sure it will, thank you.Ham_authority95 said:The pictures are quite good...but kind of "expected".LarenzoAOG said:I've been taking pictures for a school project, and I'd like to know what people other than my friends and family think of them, I took these pics myself, I didn't steal them, and I didn't Google search nature, no flaming, lemme know if you like em.
The pics are pretty big and there are a few of them so it might not show up right away, don't be a shitbird, if you're gonna steal my pics at least namedrop me, other than that, enjoy!
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I just began photography for this project, I've got a really good teacher (my dad), but he used to be a Combat Photographer, so he's not the leading authority for snapping flowers and such, if you have any beginners tips it would be greatly appreciated.
Try some different angles that aren't just a straight ahead shot. It will make them look less like desktop backgrounds. Maybe mess with the contrast, as well.
Hope that helps.
I'm going to try a shot by shot critique. Fair warning I'm a little out of practice on this.LarenzoAOG said:*snip*