That desk is your biggest problem, but if you are only getting to 65 on heavy load, it's not THAT big a deal. lower is preferable, but thats certainly doable.
Not like you play Crysis for 48hrs straight or anything
My PC was having some cooling issues last year and I just yanked off one of the 5 1/4" bay doors and it fixed it. Simple and effective. Though the dust can be a ***** now.
Err, what? A Q6600 is a middle of the road processor. It's not a QX Series, damnit. When it was new, it was £200. A good processor, yes. But not a top of the line nearly £1000 job.
It's running a bit hot, only when the computer is put under the desk... which means the desk is interfering with the airflow. That's just a matter of either... sorting the desk out, or increasing internal airflow. An alternate solution which might help is to replace the thermal compound on the CPU to something like Arctic Silver, but that will maybe get 5c.
Sorting out cooling for the graphics cards in this situation, is a waste of money. He's not complaining the northbridge, or anything else is running hot. He could well be running something fairly simple, for all you know. You are making assumptions.
As i said before, i run SLI, two cards permanently running at 70c, and am fully aware of how important extra cooling is especially on graphics. Sure, sometimes you get a bit of heat bleed from the graphics to the CPU... you are talking like your knowledge is based off your friends. Mine is based of 8 years of overclocking experience.
The Hydra you are refering to is a Thermaltake Bigwater 760i and it could be used for CPU, although it is a budget POS (My Scythe Infinity + Fans cost about £50 and frankly i don't trust 'budget' watercooling), but it doesn't top the temps by that much much, comes with a loud, noisey fan and means another £80-90 spend on something that isn't an £80-90 problem.
It's also arguable that the kit wouldn't be able to cool effectively since there isn't internal airflow to cool the radiator, and slowly the water would hold it's temperature. Water holds head for longer than air, if you didn't know (which, you didn't), much like copper is harder to transfer heat too than aluminimium.
Whilst upgrading internal solution, not many cases have room to just plonk 2 x 120mm fans, without case modification. It's also arguably pointless if you look at the airflow surrounding the case.
Cooling all parts of the computer is a decent philopshy, granted. The individual components obviously have satisfactory cooling, when not in the desk. I fully know what i'm talking about here, and it's obvious to anyone with a bit of technical knowledge that you don't really know what you are talking about. You are just aping out what someones else has said. It's obvious as you've recommended an expensive solution to a simple problem, and a solution that will not really help, either.
Showing the pics, airflow around the case is a problem. Personally, i think a bit of venting around the back of the case would be helpful as it's obviously the desk causing the issue. A bit of thermal compound would be nice. To be totally honest, 65 isn't totall unacceptable in hotter climiates. Do you have any stability issues with it?
Thanks a lot, corroded. I got Artic Silver 5 in it already, and I'm going to saw holes in the back, maybe two or three, then connect some 120mm fans or something to the mobo and attach them to the holes, my friend did that and he has a similar situation, now he has 28C. I never wanted water cooling, it's way too much of a pain in the ass. My card could be a bit of an issue, but I'm not too bothered by it (I have a Radeon HD 4850 1GB).
Thanks, everybody. I'm going to do this tonight, then see how it goes. I'll report back when it's complete.
Before we can get a coherent answer that matches what others are saying, i.e. some agreement, I think we need everyone to state specifically what they're measuring, degrees Celcius or degrees Farenheit (or Kelvin, if anyone likes absolute zero...). Especially the OP. Since the OP is American, from his profile, he'll most likely be working in Farenheit, whereas I'm British so I use Celcius, so I can't really help much here. But there needs to be some coherence, otherwise everyone will just wind up confused...
Before we can get a coherent answer that matches what others are saying, i.e. some agreement, I think we need everyone to state specifically what they're measuring, degrees Celcius or degrees Farenheit (or Kelvin, if anyone likes absolute zero...). Especially the OP. Since the OP is American, from his profile, he'll most likely be working in Farenheit, whereas I'm British so I use Celcius, so I can't really help much here. But there needs to be some coherence, otherwise everyone will just wind up confused...
CPU temps are usually in Celsius, my program (Core Temp) reports it in that.
If it's 70 and below, it's Celsius. When people talk about computer temperatures, they almost ALWAYS talk in Celsius.
I wouldn't worry about those temperatures too much. You will likely upgrade your computer long before increased temperatures reduce lifetime, anyway, and are not overclocking the equipment to run at a higher voltage, so your temps will be fine.
I run a core i7, and its all I can do to keep the temp under 60... multicores just kinda get hot, the i7 more than most.
Most heatsinks are POS, as pointed out above by corroded.
I highly reccomend just throwing the thermaltake away and getting the noctua NH-U12P HSF.
It is generally outperformed by the more expensive thermalright ultra extreme (TRUE) HS, if it is equipped with high pressure fans, and has the contact site lapped flat and polished to a mirror finish... but the noctua works great out of the box.
Some things you might look at is cable management-- you have an HP case there, so I suspect the inside is a clusterfuck of god knows what.
I would suggest you never again buy a prefab computer and start from scratch. Case manufacturers are getting real good at airflow-- ive had good luck with cases similar to this (of course, I personally splurged on a lian li... im an idiot).
A case like this will allow you to do the cable management necessary to maintain good airflow.
Examples:
This is bad
Better! But not gorgeous, of course.
Beware cutting holes. What you want is efficient flow. You want cold air coming in the front and hot air going out the back. I prefer a positive pressure setup-- more fans blowing in than blowing out. Sure, takes a bit longer for the air to circulate, but it is a great way to cut down on dust problems inside the case... negative pressure cases are bad news bears when it comes to dust.
heres what i look like at home:
This is what it looks like with no new heatsink (waited for compound to be delivered)
I have two fans in the front, one by the hard drives and one up in the middle. Air flows in and then gets sucked into the heatsink, power supply, and video card, before exiting the case. I have more input than output here.
I wouldn't worry about those temperatures too much. You will likely upgrade your computer long before increased temperatures reduce lifetime, anyway, and are not overclocking the equipment to run at a higher voltage, so your temps will be fine.
I run a core i7, and its all I can do to keep the temp under 60... multicores just kinda get hot, the i7 more than most.
Most heatsinks are POS, as pointed out above by corroded.
I highly reccomend just throwing the thermaltake away and getting the noctua NH-U12P HSF.
It is generally outperformed by the more expensive thermalright ultra extreme (TRUE) HS, if it is equipped with high pressure fans, and has the contact site lapped flat and polished to a mirror finish... but the noctua works great out of the box.
Some things you might look at is cable management-- you have an HP case there, so I suspect the inside is a clusterfuck of god knows what.
I would suggest you never again buy a prefab computer and start from scratch. Case manufacturers are getting real good at airflow-- ive had good luck with cases similar to this (of course, I personally splurged on a lian li... im an idiot).
A case like this will allow you to do the cable management necessary to maintain good airflow.
Examples:
This is bad
Better! But not gorgeous, of course.
Beware cutting holes. What you want is efficient flow. You want cold air coming in the front and hot air going out the back. I prefer a positive pressure setup-- more fans blowing in than blowing out. Sure, takes a bit longer for the air to circulate, but it is a great way to cut down on dust problems inside the case... negative pressure cases are bad news bears when it comes to dust.
heres what i look like at home:
This is what it looks like with no new heatsink (waited for compound to be delivered)
I have two fans in the front, one by the hard drives and one up in the middle. Air flows in and then gets sucked into the heatsink, power supply, and video card, before exiting the case. I have more input than output here.
Well, my plan is to move the cables a bit more, get some fans in (in a ghetto way my freind showed me), and then cut the square out. That should get my temps back to pre-desk.
I would have have made my own, but as long as I'm under my parents roof, I must comply to them.
BTW, what do you mean that most heatsinks are POS.
I strongly advise against buying any other heat sink than the noctua i linked or the TRUE... in many cases, stock cooling outperforms the silly things.
Just make sure you plan and map the airflow and make it so your cat can't get its parts caught in the fans.
I strongly advise against buying any other heat sink than the noctua i linked or the TRUE... in many cases, stock cooling outperforms the silly things.
His Zalman's not going to compete with one of those massive 120mm coolers, but it's a big upgrade from stock cooling. The cooler isn't causing the problem, unless it's installed incorrectly.
I strongly advise against buying any other heat sink than the noctua i linked or the TRUE... in many cases, stock cooling outperforms the silly things.
His Zalman's not going to compete with one of those massive 120mm coolers, but it's a big upgrade from stock cooling. The cooler isn't causing the problem, unless it's installed incorrectly.
Yeah, I had professionals install it, it's working great. My case can't fit the 120mm's, unfortunately.
I'm going to cut the desk (see the pics) then maybe connect some 120mm's to the back of the desk. I don't know, I'm going to cut it up and see how it goes.
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