Selling thingamajobs

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jamail77

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May 21, 2011
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So, I've tried eBay and craigslist. I've gone on Facebook and posted what I'm selling in a Video Game Discussion group and in a university Free & For Sale group. I'm planning on trying Amazon and posting physical fliers around where I live, but haven't gotten around to either. I heard about some site called Thriftbooks. I know you can buy books from them, but I don't know about selling.

What else could I be doing to try and sell this stuff? If any of you are curious I have more stuff I'm trying to sell. I just need to update both sites.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/jaser200/m.html?_nkw&_armrs=1&_ipg&_from
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/vgm/5143523474.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/vgm/5137463025.html
 

Frezzato

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Oct 17, 2012
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No offense, but that stuff is pretty old. And old textbooks won't really catch anyone's eye.

If you want to save time, I recommend that you drop everything off at a Goodwill or something and get a tax receipt. And if you don't want to be bothered with taxes you don't have to claim them because it's just something written on a scrap of paper.
[hr]
Otherwise, if you really want to sell something on eBay, then you have to put in some work. It's been a while for me, but I recommend you take decent photos, even with your phone, and use something like Photoscape [http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/index.php] (free) to brighten up if your lighting is less than ideal. Don't go modifying any blemishes though, and try not to use color correction. The items that sell on eBay almost always have decent, original photos.

You should also spruce up your listing titles. If something is "incomplete", as in no manual, or no box, there's no harm in being up front about it. You want to do the work beforehand so somebody has no question as to what they're buying. What does the auction come with? If it's a game, does it have the case? How about a manual? Have you tested it? Did you replace the batteries in the cartridges? What condition are the PS3/360 games in? Are they sealed, etc.

The issue you're going to have is there are competing items on eBay that are complete, which are listed for the same amount as yours, which aren't complete. For example, take a look at what has sold [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=sega%20great%20baseball&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684] on eBay to get a better idea of what's out there and why they sold.

Like I said, it's been a while since I've sold anything on eBay. I used to help my friend with his coin store, and everything we listed was pretty much guaranteed to sell. But we didn't do anything gauche like using all caps or such nonsense. Just list what you have, include the details, be upfront about the condition, and price to sell. Just be sure to isolate items which you KNOW will sell and list them separately.
 

jamail77

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Frezzato said:
No offense, but that stuff is pretty old. And old textbooks won't really catch anyone's eye.
I take no offense to that whatsoever, but you would be surprised who is willing to buy something old for nostalgia, buyer's remose, reselling at a higher price, value/collector, and saving money reasons. Just last week or so I sold two games as old as the other games you see on there. In fact, the Sega Genesis games aren't mine; I've never owned a Genesis. They're games I bought somewhere else for cheaper.

Frezzato said:
If you want to save time, I recommend that you drop everything off at a Goodwill or something and get a tax receipt. And if you don't want to be bothered with taxes you don't have to claim them because it's just something written on a scrap of paper.
If it gets to that point I absolutely will, I just need the money more than I feel the need to do something good and donate. I buy quite a lot from my local Goodwill, but have only donated one book to them. I then to give the receipts to my Moom as any tax benefits are better for her honestly.
[hr]

Frezzato said:
Otherwise, if you really want to sell something on eBay, then you have to put in some work. [snipperani]
Sounds like good advice. In fact, I planned on doing some of it already while some of your advice I didn't even think of. Is there anything I can sell for more so long as I spruce up the listing better? I am definitely selling some of my items lower than what they could go for.
 

Frezzato

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jamail77 said:
Sounds like good advice. In fact, I planned on doing some of it already while some of your advice I didn't even think of. Is there anything I can sell for more so long as I spruce up the listing better? I am definitely selling some of my items lower than what they could go for.
Other than what I've already said, plus knowing where to go to buy mailing supplies [http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Poly-Mailers-Plastic-Envelopes-Shipping-Bags-12X15-5-UPAK-Brand-/360471442377],[footnote]Perhaps you should stick to dollar stores. See how many you can get at like a dollar store or something. Still, 100 poly bags for $12 plus shipping isn't bad at all. Amazon [http://www.amazon.com/10X13-POLY-MAILERS-ENVELOPES-VALUEMAILERS/dp/B000HG9I5A?&th=1] has them as well.[/footnote] the best advice I can give you is:

Timing

I'm sure you already know this, but since eBay lists auctions of a specific time interval, you might want to consider uploading your listing at a time when you think the most people will want to bid on it.

So if you want a 7-day auction to end at 8 PM on a Wednesday or Friday, that's when you want to upload, one week prior. The same goes for an auction of any time period; if you can choose between X number of days, what they mean is days times 24 hours. Knowing about an item isn't enough. You want to get people to bite and spur them to action when they see your auction is ending soon--at a time when they're home or somewhere they can bid on something--hence between 6-8 PM (maybe).
 

jamail77

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Frezzato said:
Timing
[snip]
Knowing about an item isn't enough. You want to get people to bite and spur them to action when they see your auction is ending soon--at a time when they're home or somewhere they can bid on something--hence between 6-8 PM (maybe).
That's something I don't like about eBay though. So far the 2 items people have bought from me were bidded on at the very last minute. That means I get less money. I'll take what I can get, but it seems like an unfair system. On the other hand, if I set a fixed price certain items might never sell.

As for the times people can bid, is that really a problem when my items are being auctioned on an international scale (I set it up that way; like I said, you'd be surprised what people will buy but also from where).

Captcha: jay gatsby
...yeah, I suppose he is relevant.
 

Frezzato

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jamail77 said:
That's something I don't like about eBay though. So far the 2 items people have bought from me were bidded on at the very last minute. That means I get less money. I'll take what I can get, but it seems like an unfair system. On the other hand, if I set a fixed price certain items might never sell.
I think a reserve of maybe $1.50 for an untested cartridge is fair. If you've already listed 20 items this month then you're better off waiting until August when you get 20 more free listings [http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/fees.html#if_auction] (with fixed prices). But I wouldn't do fixed and instead go for reserve pricing, plus your shipping.

It's hard for a buyer to decide to want a cartridge when it's untested though. I have to be honest, not knowing if it works is a deal breaker--for almost everything.

.

As for the times people can bid, is that really a problem when my items are being auctioned on an international scale (I set it up that way; like I said, you'd be surprised what people will buy but also from where).
At the store we never listed anything international despite knowing it would have increased our chances to sell. And this was for coins, something where where you could tell everything you need to know just from the picture. The choice is yours obviously, but the rare times when we even bought internationally was for the really cheap stuff--stuff that was hard to screw up, like poly bags or bubble mailers in bulk--and even then only from highly established sellers. The protection policies for eBay have swung entirely in the buyer's favor, where someone could claim fraud 20+ days after receiving their merchandise. The sheer volume we were dealing with just wasn't worth the trouble.
 

jamail77

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May 21, 2011
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Frezzato said:
I think a reserve of maybe $1.50 for an untested cartridge is fair. If you've already listed 20 items this month then you're better off waiting until August when you get 20 more free listings [http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/fees.html#if_auction] (with fixed prices). But I wouldn't do fixed and instead go for reserve pricing, plus your shipping.

It's hard for a buyer to decide to want a cartridge when it's untested though. I have to be honest, not knowing if it works is a deal breaker--for almost everything.
Wait. What? Are you speaking generally or by example here? Because the cartridges I'm getting rid of have been tested and work fine.

Frezzato said:
As for the times people can bid, is that really a problem when my items are being auctioned on an international scale (I set it up that way; like I said, you'd be surprised what people will buy but also from where).
At the store we never listed anything international despite knowing it would have increased our chances to sell. [snip] The protection policies for eBay have swung entirely in the buyer's favor, where someone could claim fraud 20+ days after receiving their merchandise. The sheer volume we were dealing with just wasn't worth the trouble.
I think I know how to deal with that especially since I'm not dealing with the kind of volume you're talking about. With all these anecdotes you're giving me though did you work for a big warehouse or something?
 

Batou667

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A few things I learned selling on ebay:

- There's no accounting for taste. You might have a great item, superb condition, offered at a price that you'd jump at yourself... and no bugger buys it. Or it eventually sells for the bare minimum. And on the other hand, you might list up some old tat just speculatively before tossing it, and it sells for a decent price leaving you wondering if it actually isn't a rare item that you should have kept for yourself.

Basically, what you feel an item is worth doesn't count for much in the marketplace.

- Most people work Monday to Friday. The longest free auction you can get is 10 days. So, to maximise the exposure your item gets, and to also maximise the number of bidders able to fight over it as it ends, start a listing on a Thursday afternoon or evening to finish the following Sunday week.

- Time is money. If you're spending 5 hours total to photograph, list, edit, relist, contact buyer, pack and send an item that has made you a net $2, then congratulations, you just busted your ass for one twentieth of minimum wage. There comes a point where an item has intrinsic value but the effort involved in selling it makes it uneconomic to do so. Just pass the item along to a friend or family member, donate to charity, or toss it in the bin.

- If a bunch of individual items aren't selling, group them together into a combined or job lot. Buyers love the impression that they're getting a bargain, and it helps get rid of stubborn stock.

- Further to the above: stimulate interest by selling for a penny. This is a risky move as the item may indeed sell for a penny if a lone bidder snaps it up at the last minute. But if you can stimulate a good bidding war, it may well end up selling for MORE than if you had sent it to auction with a modest reserve price. Buyers love getting a bargain and they're often willing to fight tooth and nail to get that bargain, even if the price is creeping up beyond what they wanted to pay. When a buyer's pride is at stake, they'll throw good money after bad.
 

jamail77

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May 21, 2011
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Batou667 said:
A few things I learned selling on ebay:

- There's no accounting for taste. You might have a great item, superb condition, offered at a price that you'd jump at yourself... and no bugger buys it. Or it eventually sells for the bare minimum. And on the other hand, you might list up some old tat just speculatively before tossing it, and it sells for a decent price leaving you wondering if it actually isn't a rare item that you should have kept for yourself.

Basically, what you feel an item is worth doesn't count for much in the marketplace.
Believe me I've known that firsthand for many years, not that I don't appreciate the advice because I do. Interesting you say marketplace though. Many people bid too high for things they just want really badly, but in a real marketplace that item's value will never go that high.

Batou667 said:
- Most people work Monday to Friday. The longest free auction you can get is 10 days. So, to maximise the exposure your item gets, and to also maximise the number of bidders able to fight over it as it ends, start a listing on a Thursday afternoon or evening to finish the following Sunday week.
I hadn't thought of this. Good point.

Batou667 said:
- Time is money. If you're spending 5 hours total to photograph, list, edit, relist, contact buyer, pack and send an item that has made you a net $2, then congratulations, you just busted your ass for one twentieth of minimum wage. There comes a point where an item has intrinsic value but the effort involved in selling it makes it uneconomic to do so. Just pass the item along to a friend or family member, donate to charity, or toss it in the bin.
Been doing that too so so far, so good though I never have spent 5 hours on a single item like that. I can't imagine ever doing that. Besides, the only item I gave free shipping was when I sold Metroid: Other M to stimulate interest for obvious reasons. The fact people pay shipping means I tend to get more than $2. I don't always know what shipping to go for to entice buyers that have to pay for it though.

Batou667 said:
- If a bunch of individual items aren't selling, group them together into a combined or job lot. Buyers love the impression that they're getting a bargain, and it helps get rid of stubborn stock.
If Amazon and trying to sell these around town doesn't work out, that is my next step.

Batou667 said:
- Further to the above: stimulate interest by selling for a penny. This is a risky move as the item may indeed sell for a penny if a lone bidder snaps it up at the last minute. But if you can stimulate a good bidding war, it may well end up selling for MORE than if you had sent it to auction with a modest reserve price. Buyers love getting a bargain and they're often willing to fight tooth and nail to get that bargain, even if the price is creeping up beyond what they wanted to pay. When a buyer's pride is at stake, they'll throw good money after bad.
I thought about doing that, but selling for a penny terrifies me. As you say, a lone bidder might manage to snag it up.