The Technology Help Corner.

Rosiv

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Oct 17, 2012
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AWAR said:
Rosiv said:
Ok this is a micro atx system, not a mini itx one.
The one you came up with is meh. I suggest the following (too lazy to post links sorry)
CPU: AMD A10-6800k
GPU: integrated in the CPU, 8670D
Ram: 8 gigs, make sure it's 1866mhz.
MoBo: MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 FM2 AMD A75 (Hudson D3), or this which for some reason is ridiculously cheap but not much worse.
PSU: Most 450-500 watt psus will do. Just make sure it's rated at least 80+ bronze. Corsair is a reliable brand.

This should perform better, consume less and it should be cheaper than your selection.
Ok so would these parts all work?


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Mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130661

MSI FM2-A55M-E33 FM2 AMD A55 (Hudson D2) HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

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Ram

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820403006&Tpk=1866mhz

AMD Radeon Performance Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model AP38G1869U1K



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APU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113331

AMD A10-6800K Richland 4.1GHz (4.4GHz Turbo) Socket FM2 100W Quad-Core Desktop Processor - Black Edition AMD Radeon HD 8670D

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windows 7

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986

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Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153

Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Top 140mm Fan, 1x Rear 120mm Fan, option Fans-2x Side 120mm Fan

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PSU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028

CORSAIR CX series CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
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HDD

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339

Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive - OEM


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The pricing came to about currently 469, but will prob. raise a bit since i cant buy at this exact moment.

Still it looks pretty good, the only thing is this will be my first build. If you have any tips/how to guides that are good to follow i would appreciate it.

And also, is it safe to put a desktop in a suitcase assembled for travel? Or would the best option be to dissemble it, repack the parts in electro static bags to protect them, and then put it in the suitcase. (it is a very large suitcase)
 

AWAR

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Nov 15, 2009
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Rosiv said:
Looks good, but why did you change the case? That rosewill is a regular mid tower case, not very portable. I'd also recommend a single 8gig stick, since the motherboard only has 2 slots, though that radeon ram looks pretty sweet.
As for traveling with it, it has no separate graphics card so it should be pretty safe to carry around. I personally wouldn't bother disassembling it. You might want to get some packaging material so it doesn't wiggle inside the suitcase.

Here's a couple of useful links:
[link]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Js2A1qdB8[/link][link]http://www.escapistmagazine.com/forums/read/538.833105-What-is-the-best-way-to-take-care-of-a-PC[/link]
 

Rosiv

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Oct 17, 2012
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AWAR said:
Rosiv said:
Looks good, but why did you change the case? That rosewill is a regular mid tower case, not very portable. I'd also recommend a single 8gig stick, since the motherboard only has 2 slots, though that radeon ram looks pretty sweet.
As for traveling with it, it has no separate graphics card so it should be pretty safe to carry around. I personally wouldn't bother disassembling it. You might want to get some packaging material so it doesn't wiggle inside the suitcase.

Here's a couple of useful links:
[link]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Js2A1qdB8[/link][link]http://www.escapistmagazine.com/forums/read/538.833105-What-is-the-best-way-to-take-care-of-a-PC[/link]
I dont understand, if the motherboard only has 2 slots, and i have 2 sticks of ram, wouldnt that be good? Or am i missing something? Could you suggest something? Thank you for all your help.
 

AWAR

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Rosiv said:
It's not that important but you might want a single 8gig, since 2x4gig dimms are going to occupy all the slots and make it hard to upgrade to more RAM in the future.
 

Rosiv

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Oct 17, 2012
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AWAR said:
Rosiv said:
It's not that important but you might want a single 8gig, since 2x4gig dimms are going to occupy all the slots and make it hard to upgrade to more RAM in the future.
I am starting to purchase parts for my build above, and i was hoping you could advice me on some changes i made.

I wanted a modular PSU so cable management wouldn't be a pain, since i am going with a mirco atx case.


APEX TX-381-C Black Steel Micro ATX Tower Computer Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811154094


This is the modular power supply

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016&Tpk=Antec%20BP550%20Plus%20550W

Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Intel Haswell Fully Compatible



And i chose a cd/dvd drive as well.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151267

SAMSUNG Black 18X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA DVD-ROM Drive Model SH-118BB


Could i get your opinion on compatibility with the rest of my system?
 

AWAR

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Nov 15, 2009
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Rosiv said:
No need to worry about compatibility issues with those parts, although I'd recommend this psu instead, that antec one doesn't seem as reliable (its 80plus certification is probably fake as well).
If you aren't in a hurry I'd suggest waiting till the next month when the new Kaveri APUs are released.
 

Slitzkin

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Jul 3, 2011
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Okay so for Christmas I was given a new wireless Xbox 360 controller for my PC. I have followed the instructions carefully and I have done everything required. But the controller just will not connect to the receiver under any circumstances so far.

I have installed the correct drivers.
The USB receiver does work. The green light flashes.
I have tried using the sync buttons on both the receiver and controller.
I have unistalled and reinstalled the most up to date drivers from the Microsoft website.
I have reset my computer.

The controller just continues to flash green lights around the home button.

Please help, I really don't want to have to go through the microsoft warranty maze.
 

Rosiv

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Oct 17, 2012
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My little brother has problem with his computer. It would cycle on and off repeatedly without even displaying anything. And it was filled with dust. So i cleaned it out. But it still wouldnt work. I removed the graphics card, and it stoped cycling on and off. So i belive the power supply is dying. Any solutions to this besides replacing the PSU? (im tapped for cash)
 

alj

Master of Unlocking
Nov 20, 2009
335
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Rosiv said:
My little brother has problem with his computer. It would cycle on and off repeatedly without even displaying anything. And it was filled with dust. So i cleaned it out. But it still wouldnt work. I removed the graphics card, and it stoped cycling on and off. So i belive the power supply is dying. Any solutions to this besides replacing the PSU? (im tapped for cash)

If you can try the graphics card in another system. IF a PSU is failing then a skilled electronics engineer could possibly repair it. Usually its faulty caps or shorted transistors i would not recommend working on mains voltage stuff if you are inexperienced.

Once the GPU is tested we will know more but i would hold off buying a PSU until you have tested it. Also don't buy a cheap PSU you risk your components and potently your own safety. if you give is the specs of the system then someone on here will recommend you a good one such as seaasonic they make PSUs for many brands including corsair you cannot go far wrong with them.
 

alj

Master of Unlocking
Nov 20, 2009
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Slitzkin said:
Okay so for Christmas I was given a new wireless Xbox 360 controller for my PC. I have followed the instructions carefully and I have done everything required. But the controller just will not connect to the receiver under any circumstances so far.

I have installed the correct drivers.
The USB receiver does work. The green light flashes.
I have tried using the sync buttons on both the receiver and controller.
I have unistalled and reinstalled the most up to date drivers from the Microsoft website.
I have reset my computer.

The controller just continues to flash green lights around the home button.

Please help, I really don't want to have to go through the microsoft warranty maze.

Do you have a 360 to test the controller on ?

Download http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html and run it and see if you can see anything that may be the Receiver, it may be getting power from the USB port but the data line may not be connected.
 

alj

Master of Unlocking
Nov 20, 2009
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Rosiv said:
I dont understand, if the motherboard only has 2 slots, and i have 2 sticks of ram, wouldnt that be good? Or am i missing something? Could you suggest something? Thank you for all your help.

Do not run with a single stick you will impact performance as the ram will only run in single channel always go with a matched kit. You can always upgrade to 2x8 later and sell the 2x4 kit.

If you are using integrated graphics its even more important get the fastest ram you can afford.
 

Rosiv

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Oct 17, 2012
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Thanks for the advice alj, although i have a different question. I bought a new CPU fan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186090

ARCTIC COOLING Alpine 7 GT (UC-AR7GT-AC-01) 80mm CPU Cooler for Intel

Because the stock CPU fan that came with with my CPU, AMD A10-6800K, was getting 50-60 degrees Celsius on idle, and 80 degrees on load(playing a video game)

Now that i have the fan, my temps aren't really getting any better. As I'm typing this, my temps are around a constant 58 degrees.

I made sure to clean off ALL the thermal paste after replacing the old CPU fan, and the new CPU fan is on correctly.

Is the fan just crappy? Should I invest in a new one? Cause I don't have the money. I tried using MSI Afterburner to control the cpu fan speed, but I didn't get the option, and the program Speedfan, which i read was good for this sort of thing was very confusing to use.

Actually, now that i finished typing, the temp is at around 65 degrees.
 

AWAR

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Nov 15, 2009
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Rosiv said:
That's a crappy cooler :p. It actually looks worse than the stock FM2 cooler. I've read that the temperature readings are inaccurate for the APUs. The stock cooler should be sufficient for normal use. That being said, it won't hurt to apply a new layer of thermal paste instead of using the pre-applied layer. Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling mx4 are recommended. The Coolermaster Hyper TX3 is the minimum when it comes to aftermarket cooling. Anything lower than that is just equal to or marginally better than the stock cooler and isn't worth the money. I really think the stock cooler will be fine though. Do you have an exhaust fan installed in your case?

AMD motherboards have an option called cool n quiet in the bios settings. It automatically controls the cooler fan speed depending on the temperatures. It's usually enabled by default and makes it impossible to control the fan speed via software.
 

Rosiv

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Oct 17, 2012
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AWAR said:
Rosiv said:
That's a crappy cooler :p. It actually looks worse than the stock FM2 cooler. I've read that the temperature readings are inaccurate for the APUs. The stock cooler should be sufficient for normal use. That being said, it won't hurt to apply a new layer of thermal paste instead of using the pre-applied layer. Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling mx4 are recommended. The Coolermaster Hyper TX3 is the minimum when it comes to aftermarket cooling. Anything lower than that is just equal to or marginally better than the stock cooler and isn't worth the money. I really think the stock cooler will be fine though. Do you have an exhaust fan installed in your case?

AMD motherboards have an option called cool n quiet in the bios settings. It automatically controls the cooler fan speed depending on the temperatures. It's usually enabled by default and makes it impossible to control the fan speed via software.
I see, do you think i should disable the cool and quiet feature in the bios, and crank fan up to constant high? Or should i take my gtx 550 ti from my own home computer and instal it in this new one, so it would reduce strain on the cpu's graphics, if that is how it works?

What would be a good program to accurately get temps then on a load? Or should i just forget about it?

Thanks for the help.
 

AWAR

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Nov 15, 2009
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Rosiv said:
I kind of confused Cool n Quiet with Fan control[footnote]each company names this thing differently, in Asus boards it's Q-Fan control, in Gigabyte and MSI it's usually SmartFan control or something along these lines[/footnote]. CnC just throttles the speed and undervolts the cpu when idle to save power and reduce noise from the fans, it should be on by default [footnote]CPUz will show ~800mhz clock speed instead of your APUs default 4100mhz when idle, if CNC is enabled.[/footnote].

You don't need to control the fans manually. The mobo's Fan control configures the speed so it's automatically cranked up when the temperature is high. Most motherboards allow some customization of their fan control like setting target temperatures e.t.c. You will have to check your bios settings for that.
Temps could theoretically drop if you add the 550ti. I'd also recommend re-installing the stock cooler with a new layer of thermal paste, preferably one I recommend in my previous post. I use CPUID HWmonitor for temperature monitoring but in your case I don't think it would be of much use.
 

Rosiv

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Oct 17, 2012
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Thx for the advice AWAR, i decided to use my stock cpu cooler, w/o the 550ti, since its a bit big.

I have a more software based question though, i was getting software from "dubious" places, and was wary, so i ran malwarebytes after it, and i was infected with like 160 "stuff", im not sure what the proper term is, malwares?

I got a DLL error, that i stupidly didnt write down also when i started up my computer, saying it couldnt find a certain file in my Appdata/Temp folder

I removed them, restarted, and ran it once more. It had only one malware this time. So i removed that, but the same message appeared.

So i googled how to get rid of DLL errors, and i came up with a site that stated start up DLL issues can be caused by start up programs, and that i can get rid of them by managing start up programs using "msconfig".

ConduitFloatingPlugin_pcajpdcjfekhfnapaiphaecoajeollnc

It seemed very skechty, so i disabled it from starting up, and now i dont get the error, but how do i remove the acutal program?


EDIT: Actually i checked back on my installed programs just out of curiosty, and i saw a program i have never seen before, called sendori, googling it lead me to believe it is malyware, i am in the process of removing it, and just wanted to add that info in because i thought it would be relevant.
 

Rosiv

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Oct 17, 2012
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AWAR said:
Rosiv said:
That's a crappy cooler :p. It actually looks worse than the stock FM2 cooler. I've read that the temperature readings are inaccurate for the APUs. The stock cooler should be sufficient for normal use. That being said, it won't hurt to apply a new layer of thermal paste instead of using the pre-applied layer. Arctic Silver 5 or Arctic Cooling mx4 are recommended. The Coolermaster Hyper TX3 is the minimum when it comes to aftermarket cooling. Anything lower than that is just equal to or marginally better than the stock cooler and isn't worth the money. I really think the stock cooler will be fine though. Do you have an exhaust fan installed in your case?

AMD motherboards have an option called cool n quiet in the bios settings. It automatically controls the cooler fan speed depending on the temperatures. It's usually enabled by default and makes it impossible to control the fan speed via software.
Do you think the Cooler Master Hyper TX3

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103064

would fit in my case?

APEX TX-381-C Black Steel Micro ATX Tower Computer Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811154094


Its 16 by 16 by 8 inches.

And also, my socket is FM2, would this be compatible, for it doesn't list FM2 as a compatible socket, although i was browsing and read that it was suitable.

Thanks
 

AWAR

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Nov 15, 2009
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Rosiv said:
Yeah it will fit just fine. I have the hyper tx3 and it serves me well. The american version seems to have a slightly better fan too so it should be good for overclocking your CPU.
You might need to remove the motherboard because installation is a bit tricky.
 

Idsertian

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Apr 8, 2011
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Hey, Escapist tech heads, just a quick question.

I recently put together a new rig from scratch (rather pleased with myself on that account), everything's all set up and working fine, no issues at all. However, I spotted something in Speccy that made me raise an eyebrow:


Is that mobo temperature something I should be worried about? At first, I thought it was just Speccy throwing a wobbler, as it seemed to be stuck at 113C, but I've seen it vary from 106-114C. I don't think it is a problem, as the machine has been running absolutely fine since Friday (when I got Win7 installed), and running some fairly beefy games to boot, but just thought I'd seek some advice nonetheless.
 

AWAR

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Idsertian said:
The motherboard's temperature monitors are probably bugged, though it wouldn't hurt checking the temperatures at your motherboard's bios menu.
Also are you really running at 1280x1024? That's a serious waste of good hardware...