The problem is this: the product that the review is, is offered to the readers, not to the gaming company.
Fucking with your consumers is a bad practice, and if there isn't a way to put a check on that then there is a serious, serious goddamn problem, not to mention a breach of trust between the readership and whomever is doing the talking (which includes The Escapist). Penny-Arcade is a solid example of this; they tell you what they like, what they don't like and although I know they are not game critics per se, they have credibility, and that's worth a hell of a lot more than you might think.
Finally, to this throwaway final line:
"These people are treasures to which you should hold dear, but in the end, only one person's opinion should really matter to you: your own."
I say: Fuck off, man. I am a busy person with a lot of things to do, and games take TIME and MONEY from me. I need to be able to trust the reviews I see, if for no other reason than if I pick out a 'substandard' game I know what I'm getting into. I don't expect reviewers to do anything more but tell me their point of view, but it needs to be a mostly honest one, or else I'm unable to make a choice I can be responsible for. If I'm being fed shitty information, and I buy a shitty game, then I'm not only angry at the company that produced it, but at the people who fed me shitty information to begin with.
Reviewers have a responsibility, like it or not and saying: Hey, you should only trust yourself, is a bullshit way of saying caveat emptor, bitches, and letting those reviewers off the hook for not doing their jobs.
I might disagree with your point of view, but if your job is to provide that point of view, I have a right to expect that you have done your job, or will soon be replaced with someone who will.