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It depends what you’re powering. 650watts will work for a moderately older gaming system (say, 16xx series and below GPUs) or a modern general use system.So something like this for PSU should work?
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It'd be fine to go with this.So something like this for PSU should work?
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He's running an 6650xt, so 650w should be enough, assuming he's not running a really powerhogging cpu or something, but probably not.
I'd add the caveat that if the best you afford is still shit and it's not an emergency just hold out until you can afford something good.
Yeah, you'd want an 850W minimum* running higher end AMD cards. Depends on what else is packed in the case.
Okay just a word of warning. Between the GPU and the two M.2 slots on the front of the motherboard, you might end up using all your PCIe lanes and the other two M.2 slots may not work if they use PCIe. So if its mass storage you want, get a SATA HDD, and try and consolidate down the M.2 drives to two by getting bigger ones.
Gamer Nexus did a video on how the power supply ratings don't really mean much because they only test one very basic thing.
True, it can be a bit of a crapshoot. I'm ârtially mentioning it because higher rated PSUs, assuming they're from a good manufacturer, tend to have better quality capacitors, which does matter for reliability and longevity.
Plus brands who built their reputation upon power supplies like EVGA or Corsair aren’t in a hurry to torpedo that rep by careless and badly managed issues - lookin’ at you; Gigabyte! - and tend to stick to their guns on ratings
I'm going to be building for a combo of affordability, as cool/low watts as possible for a air cooled system and then speed and power.
The old method I first heard when I started building over a decade ago and used up until I stopped was "take the max load your PC can draw, then double it to get your recommended PSU wattage"
I'm not sure it's quite as bad now, but it's still a good idea to have some overhead. The reason why is that video cards can make a sudden request for extra power while drawing a particularly complex frame, and if this pushes your PSU enough to trigger over-current protection, it'll shut down to protect your computer. That protection will usually be somewhere around 30% above the PSU's rated maximum wattage, but it may go off below that.
Truth be told, that formula is still probably worth adhering to. All the stuff I read prior to getting my 3080 was basically make sure to get double the peak draw of the card at minimum. I just went “Fuck it, 1200 watts it is!”.
