As late as this post is to this party, I'd really like to know myself. I tried REALLY hard to enjoy this game, but I just couldn't. I tried on every level to find something to like, but the environments were lazy, the battle system was brainless, the cutscenes were amazingly poorly directed, and the characters were all irritating fuckwits. To this day whenever any one of these elements gets praised I want to ask what dear God anyone sees in them.
I SORT OF get the characters. Lightning Farron sort of deserves a better game, and Sazh is at least a little bit more relatable than the others. The designs are impressive, but I keep getting this impression that whatever the character designer intended didn't make it into the scriptwriters' heads, and each of them has their own special brand of obnoxious idiocy to make me want to shut the game off whenever they open their mouths. Snow and Hope are especially awful, the simpering tossers that they are.
I SORT OF get the battle system. It's presented in an exciting, fast-paced fashion.... aaaand that's about it. The reality of it is that the player is actually even more removed from this system than from other, more traditional turn-based systems. It always felt very artificial to me. The "staggering" system is very straightforward with no element of risk to make it all that interesting, just a routine that gets tired after about four or five battles and that you're meant to sit back and watch more than participate in.
The game all but trains you to auto-battle, with the interface switching in-and-out of sub-menus too slowly (gotta play the fancy animations!) to provide decent response time for playing manually. At the same time, it's amazingly obtuse just because you'd never actually think that a fight would work this way and would never think of how to successfully stagger something on your own without someone explaining how staggering works or experimenting, LOTS--and it's anything but pleasurable to do so. Until you do figure it out, you can't fight efficiently. After you figure it out, it's not a matter of clever strategy so much as an optimal play style where you switch paradigms at moments practically pre-defined by the game and signaled to you by obvious cues. It's all just a metagamey routine-change, with class logic ripped out of World of Warcraft (and notably condensed, I should add) rather than anything that the game can use to throw reasonable curve balls and actual strategy, which is a really hard sell for an RPG. The lack of flexibility is what kills me especially; there's almost nothing to play and experiment with past what you'll do to figure out how the stagger system works, because the stagger system overrides all other considerations.
I don't get the cutscenes, I don't get the story. I've heard people say "they should have just made a movie," but this wouldn't be passable as a film either. There's so many scenes that just waste the player's time, like that one just after the bridge collapses and Snow and what's-his-face with the mohawk fall down to a lower level of the streets. They get up, dust themselves off, Snow repeats shit we just saw happen five second ago, Mohawk Dude pretends to betray him for a second, then they both laugh and just leave. What the fuck? Other scenes supplant this with two characters getting in a philosophical argument as to the nature of their quest for about two minutes, failing to settle anything, bringing up two or three things that will never be mentioned again. They end abruptly on an awkward pause, and then they just walk off camera and the game continues, leaving me wondering what the point of this scene was in advancing the plot. And it's always that George Lucas-style "shot-reverse shot" crap from Attack of the Clones/Revenge of the Sith; the most boring way to display two characters conversing. SOMETIMES they manage to frame something so that it looks interesting, but mostly it's "shot-reverse shot" on the same map they use for random battles.
I don't get what people say about the visuals in general either. Apart from the character designs, this game is really jarring and inconsistent. Monsters are elaborate, which is par for the course for a Final Fantasy, but then you get shit like the Behemoth, with its two giant tassels floating behind it... and always behind it. It's meant to look like the wind is blowing them. So does the wind always localize its direction to "behind the Behemoth?" It's so weird and unnatural. Far be it for me to nitpick about visuals like this, but it stands out like a sore thumb every time I see it. The environments are the worst; for having spent four years allegedly making this game, these environments look barely a step above Playstation 2 launch games. The textures are higher resolution, but there's no detail and no effort put into making them believable locations.
After having gone through all that, I have a hard time figuring out what could've been a redeeming factor for someone else who played this game and actually enjoyed it. If anybody wants to rebut me, please feel free, but I want to note that by my watch these flaws all make it tooth-grindingly, unbearably awful and that the consolation that it "opens up" after 20 hours of boredom and pain doesn't do much to bide my patience.