Your Friendly Neighborhood Auto Technician: Automotive Advice

Kwak

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Do fuel injection cleaners which you add to the tank do much good or harm? Could one be used with the petrol to clean a carburetor on a motorbike?
Is a valve lubricant (flash lube), often advertised as a 'lead replacement' for older leaded engines, of any use on new unleaded petrol engines?
 

Mister Mumbler

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Do fuel injection cleaners which you add to the tank do much good or harm? Could one be used with the petrol to clean a carburetor on a motorbike?
Is a valve lubricant (flash lube), often advertised as a 'lead replacement' for older leaded engines, of any use on new unleaded petrol engines?
No harm, but these same chemicals are added into gasoline already as part of the additives (stateside atleast). It should work fine on a motorbike carburetor. I would try Sea Foam (I haven't used it personally but it was one of the products brought up as working pretty well while I went to school).
I haven't heard of it before, but I took a quick look at (I believe it's their) website, if it's the light blue liquid then it's the same as the above injector cleaners. If it's the yellow liquid valve saver, it looks like that for vehicles converted from gas to...well, gas (hurray for America), but propane or natural gas.
 

Kwak

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No harm, but these same chemicals are added into gasoline already as part of the additives (stateside atleast). It should work fine on a motorbike carburetor. I would try Sea Foam (I haven't used it personally but it was one of the products brought up as working pretty well while I went to school).
I haven't heard of it before, but I took a quick look at (I believe it's their) website, if it's the light blue liquid then it's the same as the above injector cleaners. If it's the yellow liquid valve saver, it looks like that for vehicles converted from gas to...well, gas (hurray for America), but propane or natural gas.
Yeah the yellow - "valve saver lead replacement lpg protection". I use it in motorcycles but I don't know if it's just superstition or helping at all in the long-term.
 

Alienware

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Personally, of the three big German brands, I like the style of Audi the best. The other two have gone in for a lot of harsh, aggressive lines while Audi has kept their luxury sedans pretty subdued. As far as Caddilac is concerned, I'm not too big of a fan of GM (their engineering dept seems to smoke more crack than Ford's), however the new Navigators have been pretty nice, if you're into SUVs.


Already am.
Any comments on reliability? That's what I really wanted to know
 

Thaluikhain

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I don't suppose you've got any opinions of using biofuel, either in a dedicated set up or a diesel engine?
 

Baffle

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Do fuel injection cleaners which you add to the tank do much good or harm? Could one be used with the petrol to clean a carburetor on a motorbike?
Is a valve lubricant (flash lube), often advertised as a 'lead replacement' for older leaded engines, of any use on new unleaded petrol engines?
I used to drive a Hyundai Elantra, which had a really rough diesel engine (and was also shit it all other ways), and adding the fuel additive made it run much more smoothly. With my current car, which is a much more modern diesel, it makes no noticeable difference, but it's already a very smooth drive.
 

Baffle

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-Worst car brands that are actually cars (otherwise it would go to any one of those awful, tiny little Chinese/Indian "cars" with all the accident protection of a tin foil lasagna pan) would probably be Hyundai.
I've had three Hyundais (because they're comparatively cheap): Elantra, Coupe (I think a Tiburon in the States) and a Tucson.

The Elantra was dogshit. Constant electrical problem that meant it randomly wouldn't start and I could never get a mechanic that could fix it -- literally had to leave the engine running when I went into shops because it might not start when I came back out. That car made my life a misery and at the time I was too poor to do anything about it.

The Tucson was great for the first two years (that I had it, the car was actually 15 years old), but then the injectors and the alternator went at the same time and after spending £400 trying to repair it I had to scrap it. Was just totally fucked and a danger. [Side note: in the Tucson the brake booster is connected to the vacuum system, so if, as happened, the EGR valve gets rusted shut or open, the brake booster can suddenly and randomly fail, which is scary].

The Coupe was gold (not colour, just standard - it was actually black). Fucking loved that car. Looked good, felt good. Bullet proof (again, not literally). Felt like it would go forever (only got rid of it because the dog wouldn't get in the back seats, only being a two-door car).

Worst car I ever had was probably a Daewoo (before they were Chevrolet) Nubira. Just shit and really hard to get parts for in the UK at the time.
 

Mister Mumbler

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Sorry for the late reply, had a long busy day and was taking a moment to kick back a little.
Yeah the yellow - "valve saver lead replacement lpg protection". I use it in motorcycles but I don't know if it's just superstition or helping at all in the long-term.
It looks like it's just an additive used for vehicles that used to run on gas, and then changed to a different fuel, like propane (LPG, Liquid Propane Gas) or natural gas (CNG, Compressed Natural Gas). It shouldn't do any harm, but I also don't think it's doing anything extra for you either, at least that specific brand/product. I would try and find an injector cleaner made specifically for motorcycles (I would say to try that blue one I mentioned earlier, but it only mentions cars/trucks), or try and find...well, here stateside it's called "Top Tier", or "detergent gasoline". It's basically gasoline with these extra additives mixed in already at the pump, though I don't know what it would be called out your way.
Any comments on reliability? That's what I really wanted to know
Ah, my bad. As far as reliability goes, I don't personally deal with them, but I also didn't hear any sort of horror stories about them either (outside of expensive repairs), though I have had a few Cadillacs roll into my bay for maintenance. Honestly, outside of some real high profile lemons (Ford's DCT comes to mind, even if my own DCT Focus didn't have any problems for the time that I owned it), most cars built today will do 100k miles...provided maintenance is done on them regularly.
I don't suppose you've got any opinions of using biofuel, either in a dedicated set up or a diesel engine?
I'm not a diesel person/mechanic, but from what (little) I've heard, it works pretty well, though it really depends on the quality of the fuel. Can't just dump grease right from the fryer into the gas tank, y'know?
 
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Mister Mumbler

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I've had three Hyundais (because they're comparatively cheap): Elantra, Coupe (I think a Tiburon in the States) and a Tucson.

The Elantra was dogshit. Constant electrical problem that meant it randomly wouldn't start and I could never get a mechanic that could fix it -- literally had to leave the engine running when I went into shops because it might not start when I came back out. That car made my life a misery and at the time I was too poor to do anything about it.

The Tucson was great for the first two years (that I had it, the car was actually 15 years old), but then the injectors and the alternator went at the same time and after spending £400 trying to repair it I had to scrap it. Was just totally fucked and a danger. [Side note: in the Tucson the brake booster is connected to the vacuum system, so if, as happened, the EGR valve gets rusted shut or open, the brake booster can suddenly and randomly fail, which is scary].

The Coupe was gold (not colour, just standard - it was actually black). Fucking loved that car. Looked good, felt good. Bullet proof (again, not literally). Felt like it would go forever (only got rid of it because the dog wouldn't get in the back seats, only being a two-door car).

Worst car I ever had was probably a Daewoo (before they were Chevrolet) Nubira. Just shit and really hard to get parts for in the UK at the time.
Oh yeah, I mainly said that based on my experience of my grandmother owning a Sonata. It had this loveable habit of having the alarm go off every once in a while.
 

Phoenixmgs

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It took me about a year and a half or so, though a bit of that was doing the extra program setup by Ford (their program had a lot more time devoted to electrical theory and testing, as well as working with full sized, actual cars instead of the cut apart trainers the rest of the school was basically).

Yeah, getting used to the size of the car I'm driving is pretty much the one thing that makes me nervous when driving unfamiliar vehicles (I'll usually angle the mirrors down far enough to see the lane lines in relation to the car while still being able to see properly).

-Worst car brands that are actually cars (otherwise it would go to any one of those awful, tiny little Chinese/Indian "cars" with all the accident protection of a tin foil lasagna pan) would probably be Hyundai. Best is much trickier, as I have always been more of a classic car guy, and a lot of car companies these days are moving towards a bland, crossover singularity and seem determined to kill small/medium sized cars.
-Most important is probably going to be brake fluid. While it doesn't need to be done regularly (about every three years, depending on the climate), due to it's properties it does go bad and lose it's ability to withstand the heat bleed off from the brake pads. Air filters, both the one for the engine, and (if you have one in your vehicle) the one for the AC system. Also worth noting, if you have a car that has a GDI engine (gasoline, direct injected) you will need to clean off your air intake valves as they will build up carbon on them. This is because, for emission control reasons, unburnt vapors from the combustion chamber are vented back into the air charge for the next cycle. Normally, most vehicles mix the gasoline and air charge before it enters the cylinder through the valve, but GDI engines work similarly to diesel engines and spray the fuel right into the cylinder. Also, check your tire pressure. Running them too low (tire sags, wears out the outer edge or "shoulder", and damages the sidewall) or too high (tire bulges out, inner portion of tire wears faster than outer) can cause extra wear/damage to the tire.
-Unneeded? Tire slime/fix-a-flat. Never use it. Not only will it ruin the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) sensor inside the tire, it will leave a horrible mess for us to clean up once you bring it in. Transmission fluid should be able to go about 100k miles before needing to be flushed, but always check your owner's manual for the vehicle for the maintenance schedule (and check which climate/usage schedule it is, a car driven sparingly in farm country midwest will need maintenance less often than one driven in stop and go traffic in 110+ degree weather in Los Angeles).
-Eh, on the one hand I kind of agree that people need to learn to use their mirrors properly (and remember they can look around too), on the other I have seen some rather small and poorly shaped mirrors that made it real awkward to look out of, not to mention times such as glare from the sun making it difficult to actually see.
I guess I just naturally at least have a feel for the width of a car. Quite often I drive with other guys at work (going to lunch or an offsite) and they'll not be sure if they can squeeze in wherever and I'll look up for like a second and tell them they got plenty of room. Getting other things down like knowing how long the car is when backing out or parallel parking is a different story.

Looks like I should probably get my brake fluid checked next oil change then, I haven't touched the brakes in 4 years and ~50,000 miles.

I only ever actually look when I'm on a highway with more than 2 lanes where me and another guy (2 lanes over that the mirror can't see) could be change lanes into the same lane at the same time. Outside of those times, I only use my side mirrors to check when changing lanes. I did have to drive this Chevy Malibu a few years back as a rental for when my old Civic got totalled (dude running from the cops and blowing a stop sign) and I could never get those side mirrors set right, and I did almost hit a guy changing lanes and always looked after that in that car. I also hated that the Malibu would turn off at stop lights and that putting literally anything on the passenger seat would cause the buckle seatbelt warning to come on. I can put bags of groceries on my Civic's passenger seat and it knows a person ain't sitting there.
 

Wintermute

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Is it safe to drive a car with tyres that "expired" 3 years ago? They look fine, they feel fine, this car spends most of its time in a garage. Asking for a friend.
 

Mister Mumbler

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Is it safe to drive a car with tyres that "expired" 3 years ago? They look fine, they feel fine, this car spends most of its time in a garage. Asking for a friend.
Have them check the tire for dry rot; they're looking for small (or large, if it's particularly bad) cracking in the rubber, mainly 1) where the sidewall meets the shoulder (where the flat face of the tire starts rolling over to the grooved, tread portion) and 2) between the columns of tread that run the circumference of the tire. Dry rot in these areas can cause a tire to fail while driving.
 

Bob_McMillan

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Is there any real reason for me to learn how to drive manual cars? I've always been told that they're cheaper so it makes sense to learn how to drive them as well, but I feel technology is catching up to the point that automatic cars will be just as affordable.
 

Fieldy409

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Is there any real reason for me to learn how to drive manual cars? I've always been told that they're cheaper so it makes sense to learn how to drive them as well, but I feel technology is catching up to the point that automatic cars will be just as affordable.
Understanding how a clutch and gear changes work at least is a big deal if you ever need to operate something other than a car with one I guess. Like a tractor or something.
 

Kae

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How do the cars from Pixar's cars make other cars?
 

Mister Mumbler

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Is there any real reason for me to learn how to drive manual cars? I've always been told that they're cheaper so it makes sense to learn how to drive them as well, but I feel technology is catching up to the point that automatic cars will be just as affordable.
They're cheaper in the sense that they are cheaper to fix/replace should anything go wrong; there's no complex set of fluid passages and nesting doll of gears and holding bands, it's basically just a set of gears. Plus what @Fieldy409 said above, it's just nice to know that you can drive anything should you need to (it should be noted that most of the fun performance vehicles have manual transmissions, this these days a lot of them have done away with the clutch and moved to the flappy paddles on the steering wheel). As someone who learned how to drive a manual only about two years ago, it's not necessary but it doesn't hurt to know either.
How do the cars from Pixar's cars make other cars?
Car sex obviously. For a more "real" answer, probably with automated factories, but then the whole world of Cars is a mess and doesn't make sense (they seem to follow our history, but cars have only been around for less than 150 years, were steam locomotives sentient, why are they designed to hold people that don't exist, etc).
 

Shadyside

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Where do you see cars at decades from now? Will all of them be electric and or hybrid? Has there been major accidents in your workplace?
 

SupahEwok

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Where do you see cars at decades from now? Will all of them be electric and or hybrid? Has there been major accidents in your workplace?
I pretty firmly believe that cars will be majority automated in 20 years or less. I'm not a mechanic, but I am in a somewhat adjacent field and have some awareness on the direction that automated piloting is taking.

I also think they'll be hybrid by then, but that's mostly just talking out of my ass. It's probably what would have to happen if efficiency and emissions requirements keep getting tighter.
 
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