So, I decided to cook up some sweet and sour pork. Actually my partner decided she would like some sweet and sour pork and I'm the one who cooks, so, by induction, I decided to cook up some sweet and sour pork.
I figured it would be cool to see about trying to cook it up as traditional as possible assuming such a thing exists and although it does it took a while to come to terms with it because I kept finding ketchup in the ingredient list and it made me think it wasn't a traditional recipe. So, this here is what I learned today about China, international trade, 500 years of history, and weird circumstance.
Ketchup is originally Chinese, inspired by Chinese cuisine, and is inspiration for Chinese cuisine all at the same time. So 500 years ago there were these people who liked a particular kind of fermented fish sauce called kê-tsiap and used it to enhance umami flavours and such in a lot of dishes. Based on what I've found online, this is similar to but not exactly the same as the fish sauce you come across in Vietnamese cooking.
A hundred years later Europeans started trading with China like whoa, and they came across this sauce and apparently came to really like it (they kind of got suckered into it since they were there for something else but the fish sauce was everywhere and you know how it is, you're hungry and you got what you got). Barrels and barrels went back home, but it was an import from China, so not super cheap. To deal with that, the British started just trying to make something themselves. Now instead of anchovies and mushrooms fermented, it was mushrooms, shallots, and a bunch of spices that you boiled the piss out of and strained to make a thin kind of brown sauce. I don't know how you could taste fish sauce and taste one of these recipes I found and think they were even a little related, but I guess I don't know what fish sauce tasted like 400 years ago and that's how shit goes anyway. Its not even as weird as how worcestershire sauce came to be so whatever I guess.
Fast forward another couple hundred years and you come face to face with Tomatoes, imported from their original home in South America near the equator. Those beasties got brought back to Britain and, similar to everything else, just kind of got incorporated. I wasn't able to find out why specifically people decided that their brown sauce needed a red tinge, but it happened - originally in the same heavily spiced brown sauce format as above (with brandy and shit too? I found a number of recipes and they get progressively more and more complex over the years) - but eventually sugared down and simplified when it crossed the ocean into North America because we like it cheap and sweet baby. And, frankly, they probably couldn't really afford much in the way of imported spices to follow the British versions since a lot of that shit was not NA native or easily grown here. THAT sauce got exported BACK to China, apparently around 100 years ago but its tough to say, and eventually got incorporated back into Chinese cuisine as the sweet portion of many sweet and sour dishes.
So yeah. That's a sauce that took a journey. Its kind of hard to really say the sauce we know as corn syrup and tomato paste is really anything like what ketchup was, but it is undeniably the result of a 500 year long game of telephone.